Rian Phin
Rian Phin
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loewe & art (jonathan anderson's curation, surrealism, technology)
Loewe
Thank you to the Instagram Creators team for sending me to London to see Jonathan Anderson talk about his Offer Waterman exhibition “On Foot”
Sources:
* Jonathan Anderson’s walk through On Foot in London (attended by me)
* Mediating The Human Body by Katz
* In Conversation: Jonathan Anderson & Anthea Hamilton by Aimee Farrell (2017)
* The Man Turning European Fashion Into Something Raw and Real by Nancy Hass (2019)
* Ask The Artist | Questions for Lynette Yiadom-Boakye | Tate video
* Lynette Yiadom-Boakye at Tate Britain: Fly in League with the Night video
* 1961 Barbara Hepworth on Sculpture BBC Archive video
* Offer Waterman - “ON FOOT: An Exhibition Curated by Jonathan Anderson”
* JW Anderson’s new exhibition ‘On Foot’ is an ode to London via Wallpaper Magazine
* JW Anderson’s ‘On Foot’ Exhibition Celebrates Heroic London Life via Hypebeast
* Vogue Runway
* The Upcoming
* The Times
* Tatler
Переглядів: 6 790

Відео

20471120 & fashion philosophy: re-framing as sustainable
Переглядів 8 тис.11 місяців тому
sources cited: eco friendly design www.researchgate.net/publication/271267611_Characteristics_of_Eco-friendly_Design_Expressed_in_Issey_Miyake's_Fashion apiaryps.org/resource-library/environmental-justice www.jstor.org/stable/10.1525/j.ctv1wxsth yourfashionarchive yourfashionarchive.com/ masahiro nakagawa masahironakagawa.com/works/trp08-en.html akaibu akaibu.co/ my fav TRP 3rd. “CATWALK ON FIR...
martine rose & mysterious mundane fashion (transforming space)
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
vimeo.com/25942449 vimeo.com/227745907 www.dobedorepresents.com/news/20/09/martine-rose-for-replica-magazine-photographed-by-dick-jewell vimeo.com/406663221 www.highsnobiety.com/p/martine-rose-fw21/ vimeo.com/83297200 www.nytimes.com/2019/06/12/t-magazine/martine-rose.html vimeo.com/498069853 vimeo.com/274710408 vimeo.com/346642703 ua-cam.com/video/hnZM9NJzuTM/v-deo.html
how they do inverted status in fashion (video essay)
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
thatadult rianphin tiktok : thatadult • Fashioning Identity by Mackinney Valentin • Status by Cecilia Ridgeway • When Clothes Become Fashion by Ingrid Loschek • Fashion Desire and Anxiety by Rebecca Arnold • Performative Rhetorics in Invisibility by Erin O’connor
rating most influential runway shows reviewed + explained (my faves lol)
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
the article in question: www.nytimes.com/2022/09/22/t-magazine/fashion-influential-womens-collections.html
mysterious mundane online photo culture + fashion (video essay)
Переглядів 20 тис.Рік тому
EXPLAININGGGG what i'm SAYYIYINNNGGGG MENTIONED: tiktok.com/rue.yi
nyfw vlog + behind scenes runway & reviews (my lived experience, please)
Переглядів 7 тис.Рік тому
LMAO i uploaded the wrong edit i'm so sorry
margiela, rick owens, comme, gaultier & personal style
Переглядів 13 тис.Рік тому
Citations: Rebecca Arnold - Fashion Desire and Anxiety Issey Miyake and Nature - (coming) Fashioning Memory - Heike Jenss Ackermann on Gaultier - ua-cam.com/video/mX-jXuj2n54/v-deo.html Ackerman on Gaultier via WWD Glen Martens on Gaultier - (coming) Gaultier on provoking via WWD Why I Wear Rick Owens - ua-cam.com/video/6j-0palq5Gc/v-deo.html Ann Demeulemeester on Relationships, Garments her fr...
2023 runway minimalism to tumblr detail bloggers pipeline
Переглядів 8 тис.Рік тому
2023 runway minimalism to tumblr detail bloggers pipeline
maison margiela, anti-fashion, sleaze and nostalgia (video essay)
Переглядів 31 тис.Рік тому
Works Cited: 1. Exhibition Review: Maison Martin Margiela 20 by Nicolas Cambridge 2. Cross Temporal Explorations: Notes On Fashion and Nostalgia by Heike Jenss (2013) 3. (Re)collecting the past: Fashion, wardrobe, and memory by CJ Babula 4. When Clothes Become Fashion by Ingrid Loschek (Page 42) 5. Cultural meaning and hip-hop fashion in the African-American male youth subculture of New Orleans...
post-gatekeeping fashion discourse fatigue lol
Переглядів 18 тис.Рік тому
JUICYYYYYYYY
the futuristic fashion vs. sustainability debate
Переглядів 11 тис.Рік тому
you know that faye webster song where they go like "i know i'm funny HAha" i love that song hat - stomachofyour soulmate shirt - luckyjewel necklace - galya faye gems insta: thatadult twitter: rianphin source citation: * Co-design communities Online doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12640026716474 * Smart clothing in practice doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12640026716393 * Scentsor...
why i wear issey miyake
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
sources: * Japanese Fashion Designers by Bonnie English * Issey Miyake Moves Documentary - ua-cam.com/video/T6GWJ0SdE3o/v-deo.html * Documentary about H*ro*hima - White Light Black Rain * Sustainability Article (in Korean) koreascience.kr/article/JAKO201215239619462.page (adding other sources)
how to build personal style II: conceptual approach / unconventional
Переглядів 18 тис.Рік тому
Spatial wRapping Scott L Ruff Fashioning Identity by Mackinney Valentin Music: libra by anajah My blog with links thatadult.blogspot.com My socials tiktok.com/thatadult rianphin thatadult ftc: LOL???
status ambiguity outcomes / impact on future fashion
Переглядів 8 тис.Рік тому
citations: Eleanor ( t.taurus on tiktok) Fashion Desire and Anxiety by Rebecca Arnold Fashioning Identity by MacKinney Valentin
status ambiguity is shifting culture + fashion
Переглядів 29 тис.Рік тому
status ambiguity is shifting culture fashion
non-functional fashion (art's relationship w/ fashion)
Переглядів 9 тис.Рік тому
non-functional fashion (art's relationship w/ fashion)
why i (still) wear rick owens
Переглядів 15 тис.Рік тому
why i (still) wear rick owens
how to develop personal style / how i did +: my story
Переглядів 30 тис.Рік тому
how to develop personal style / how i did : my story
SSENSE wishlist for fall (as i elevate my style)
Переглядів 7 тис.Рік тому
SSENSE wishlist for fall (as i elevate my style)
fashion sensibilities over aesthetics (extemporaneous essay)
Переглядів 23 тис.Рік тому
fashion sensibilities over aesthetics (extemporaneous essay)
mainstream fashion and trend adaptation
Переглядів 22 тис.Рік тому
mainstream fashion and trend adaptation
Exploring The History of Y2K Fashion (Cult Classic Mag)
Переглядів 13 тис.2 роки тому
Exploring The History of Y2K Fashion (Cult Classic Mag)
SSENSE WISHLIST FALL 2021 (thoughts on subversive basics yikes lol)
Переглядів 10 тис.2 роки тому
SSENSE WISHLIST FALL 2021 (thoughts on subversive basics yikes lol)
ARTIST LOFT LIFE - WEEK IN MY LIFE - i win, birthday storytime, designing
Переглядів 9 тис.2 роки тому
ARTIST LOFT LIFE - WEEK IN MY LIFE - i win, birthday storytime, designing
ssense WISHLIST | streetwear history + margiela house codes vs jacquemus
Переглядів 7 тис.3 роки тому
ssense WISHLIST | streetwear history margiela house codes vs jacquemus
My showStudio Machine-A Wishlist + Thoughts on Streetwear
Переглядів 4,5 тис.4 роки тому
My showStudio Machine-A Wishlist Thoughts on Streetwear
MEAN GIRLS gets on my nerves, *Watching* Mean Girls | ThatAdult
Переглядів 16 тис.4 роки тому
MEAN GIRLS gets on my nerves, *Watching* Mean Girls | ThatAdult
DIY - How To Make 90's Prada Runway Th-ng Skirt
Переглядів 4,9 тис.4 роки тому
DIY - How To Make 90's Prada Runway Th-ng Skirt
My SSENSE Wishlist | ThatAdult
Переглядів 4,4 тис.4 роки тому
My SSENSE Wishlist | ThatAdult

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @juiceboxgrl
    @juiceboxgrl Годину тому

    the aphex twin necklace yes

  • @earth2bitchez
    @earth2bitchez 14 днів тому

    Im obsessed with watching ur videos such a refreshing and new outlook for me i think this could change my life

  • @DetGest
    @DetGest 19 днів тому

    Hey, just wanted to say I'm a big fan of your video essays, looking forward to whenever you come back with more thoughts

  • @sana-gq2ur
    @sana-gq2ur 21 день тому

    girl, i'm totally in love with your work ❤

  • @sana-gq2ur
    @sana-gq2ur 21 день тому

    this video is so genius ❤❤

  • @swanscream3191
    @swanscream3191 25 днів тому

    back again, really really good video, really fresh, vital perspective on fashion and culture. I used to think about getting hobnailed boots, they crash very loudly on most city surfaces, but not on dirt and grass. Something about rejection there maybe...

  • @jenniechan3587
    @jenniechan3587 Місяць тому

    The UA-cam channel i have been searching for 🙏

  • @BodegaMo
    @BodegaMo Місяць тому

    I hope you got a new bottle! Fucking love your insights, Rian.

  • @swanscream3191
    @swanscream3191 Місяць тому

    I just found this channel today, know you haven't uploaded in a while but this is really really good, I hope you're okay wherever you are!!!

  • @KawaiiKandikidPLURR
    @KawaiiKandikidPLURR Місяць тому

    Girl Thriteen is not racist lmao

    • @RianPhin
      @RianPhin Місяць тому

      @@KawaiiKandikidPLURR did you listen to the video

    • @nvvk01
      @nvvk01 День тому

      Nah frr

  • @reebs2316
    @reebs2316 Місяць тому

    If the ethos of Issey Miyake's design perspective is nature, why did he design with so many synthetic fabrics that seemingly harm nature? Genuinely curious if someone knowledgeable could answer!

    • @RianPhin
      @RianPhin Місяць тому

      @@reebs2316 because they’re necessary to maintain the pleating (for example) and other structured garments and have longevity in someone’s wardrobe. so the idea is that people hold onto their pieces and they last a lifetime and can be reused, they’re also washable so they’re practical wardrobe pieces etc. instead of sitting dormant in the closet, they’re made use of.

    • @reebs2316
      @reebs2316 Місяць тому

      @@RianPhin oh that’s cool, like longevity throughout time. thanks for taking the time to explain!

  • @reebs2316
    @reebs2316 Місяць тому

    I could listen to you talk about how societal transgressions can lead us to a better future all day

  • @amaniahmad5642
    @amaniahmad5642 Місяць тому

    What's so crazy is that I literally read Rookie Mag when I was like 9 to 11 years old, so I'm nostalgic of something from my childhood that people older than me wrote to be nostalgic of their own childhoods...wow.

  • @tkyo-andro
    @tkyo-andro Місяць тому

    rewatching this video because the concepts are feeling more relevant to my life & relationship w/ fashion rn. thanks for having shared your thoughts <3

  • @air8223
    @air8223 Місяць тому

    Like this film has so many unanswered questions like how did evie end up like this Did Tracy have to repeat the year? did she get all her friends back? did she forget her old lifestyle? What happened to Evie? Like there's so much i wanna know 😭

  • @air8223
    @air8223 Місяць тому

    Honestly i feel like tracy was gonna end up like that even if she didn't get called a cabbage patch kid (but not as extreme tho) because she was already rebelling it's just that evie made it even worse like she was already showing signs of mental health problems and she was already smoking and i think mel knew she was smoking because in the beginning of the film she picks up a cigarette from the ground and that's where tracy usually hid her cigarettes and plus she already knew mason was smoking pot so she's obviously not too strict with drug use and at the end of the film when her and Brooke are confronting tracy and mel says she knew what was going on but didn't know it went that far which is already irresponsible of her so the cabbage patch insult was just the cherry on top

  • @BEATSBYBEEP
    @BEATSBYBEEP Місяць тому

    Came back to this video after I saw a lot of Bianca Censori outfits, and i wondered if it would be seen the same. She is wearing these really sheer outfits in winter i guess there is a certain luxury of not having to be exposed to the cold for extended periods of time that allow her dress like that. To me in seems to have a similar effect as the Olsen twins Boho days

  • @mariahpeters18
    @mariahpeters18 Місяць тому

    A cinematic masterpiece is righttttt 👏🏽 thank you for being so down to earth to actually SEEEEE and FEEEEL what this movie is about and what it represent bc YAHHHHH these kind of lifestyles DO happen for young ones. My friend was a part of it at this literal age and became a drug addict all thru high school. I almost did too but I wasn’t cool enough for her, thank goodness, or else yeah. I also met a 12 yo dressed and made up like an 18 yo telling me and the crew how she’s gonna find someone for me to hook up with I was like girl you’re 12 🫨 so yaaaahhhh this movie is so moving. I’m happy that there’s someone who appreciates the message unlike “Movies that raised us” bc they came into the review with hesitation and disapproval but GLORIFIED Cruel Intentions like ummmmm that’s about a bro and sis sexually manipulating a young girl to get back at a guy 😀 make it make sense?? Anywaaaayyyys middle school for me was 2007-2009 and the cool shoes were chucks, etnies, DC, and the cool backpacks were jansport all the way

  • @bigwildonion
    @bigwildonion 2 місяці тому

    I appreciate the thought that coolness is morally neutral. We can cast a wide net with our experience and perception of cool. We can keep a balanced and critical perspective on it. We can see it as a nudge to examine evocative objects in meaningful ways. And we can enjoy the thrill of it.

  • @OoOo-e6x
    @OoOo-e6x 2 місяці тому

    You're a gem.

  • @literaturenthusiast4284
    @literaturenthusiast4284 2 місяці тому

    "they capitalize on the fact that people want the status associated with expensive things that are identifiable" i'm so glad you're shedding light on this topic in an age where we confine ourselves to the "aesthetic" we identify with

  • @bigwildonion
    @bigwildonion 2 місяці тому

    Think in a different way and the fashion is in your heart--these are the messages that I needed today, and you lifted my spirits. Big thank you!

  • @Daisy-d7d
    @Daisy-d7d 2 місяці тому

    In defense of Evie: Because she's villainized as the bad influence friend, her trauma gets overshadowed. She is accused of being a liar. She's in survival mode so she keeps making friends with people who use her and then when she's no longer fun or has anything to give, she gets tossed out. She's only a plot device, you never see her in moments alone like they show with Tracy. I remember watching my friends argue with their parents like Tracy does and wondering how they could get away with that, or why would even do that to a loving parent? The Evie's of the world have no frame of reference to see what the problem is or how they are contributing to it. I feel like the movie makes it look like she ruined Tracy's life on purpose because of the natural way we side with the main character but you can see Tracy was already changing before she met Evie. It's tempting to blame Evie for the changes but she was just there at one point in time, and again, this is a child in survival mode. She doesn't know she's manipulating, she doesn't even know what she's lying about. I remember being accused over and over in my childhood and not understanding why because honesty was a virtue to me. My phone would get cut off because my caregiver couldn't afford it or would break it, but my friends would assume the worst. Let's also put responsibility back where it belongs, the adults are failing both Tracy and Evie. I loved my Tracy friends. I was always so confused by the painful endings, just like they were.

  • @charlottejennifer_
    @charlottejennifer_ 2 місяці тому

    This movie is a perfect example of how tense female relationships are at this point of your life

  • @instcofelovr4
    @instcofelovr4 2 місяці тому

    Can't wait to rewatch this!

  • @TheShazBot1111
    @TheShazBot1111 2 місяці тому

    18:13-19:00 hits so hard after watching both personal style videos. Thank you for a great message!

  • @martinx.floresrodriguez4507
    @martinx.floresrodriguez4507 2 місяці тому

    thx u so much for your words

  • @hctr9864
    @hctr9864 2 місяці тому

    the blues clues rant lmfaaaooo 😭😭😭

  • @cryisfree510
    @cryisfree510 2 місяці тому

    this is what happens when aspiring creatives get their inspiration from instagram moodboards who regurgitates the same content

  • @777ysl6
    @777ysl6 2 місяці тому

    You're so cool I'd love to be friends 🤍

  • @moody2415
    @moody2415 2 місяці тому

    my why is because i grew up with uniform my whole life and never really got to express myself with clothes and felt a lack on control of self

  • @gappygapps
    @gappygapps 2 місяці тому

    On the topic of the misinformation and appropriation of Y2K fashion/culture. I think it deals with access to pop culture back then. Regular people weren't dressing in the chrome, plasticy garb because they were essentially costumes. You would see them in music videos, movies, video games, because Y2K represented the idea of a computer led future. The appliances might have looked y2k, but even then they were gimmicky. But it looked cool, so to those who were so young or weren't born yet, their idea of the late 90s -early 2000s bleed together. Access to certain movies, toys, and games from that era from older relatives perhaps. But the actual era was so short. In relation to that, someone mentioned the 2010. With that comes vaporwave and future funk. And the neo-80s look. Vaporwave/future funk purposefully took old iconography and samples from the 80s and morphed it into idea of capitalistic surrealism. But since we're post Y2K, people have more access to niche sub cultures. So, they swung their appreciation for it back into following what marketing teams from the early 90s would have produced. The bright, loud apparel, random squiggles and shapes on things, assymetrical classes. And just brighter "personalities". The further away society gets from a certain, passing culture, the further they rely on what pop culture of that time deemed trendy

  • @ColaCartel
    @ColaCartel 2 місяці тому

    found you via twitter, i love the way you articulate yourself in a way that makes what you think clear but also doesn’t treat the audience like idiots. thank you for your work i love it!!

  • @noahbentton
    @noahbentton 2 місяці тому

    esoteric yum

    • @noahbentton
      @noahbentton 2 місяці тому

      beautiful video. just so so brilliant your knowledge and passion for fashion but humanity in general is so inspiring and worthy of praise and thankfulness like ur so itttttt like yesss!! love it

  • @joyk1288
    @joyk1288 2 місяці тому

    Honestly this video is such a gem

  • @omgstoptakingnames
    @omgstoptakingnames 3 місяці тому

    lol I know I'm a little late to this video but there is literally a genre of fashion based on a futuristic look called "techwear" where the fabrics that are generally used focus on things like water resistance, fast drying, and or breathability. Or maybe they're cut in a way for more articulation and have other functions.

  • @Avery-cs9qz
    @Avery-cs9qz 3 місяці тому

    thirteen is the only reason i learned to speak gibberish lol

  • @ritosuckerino6763
    @ritosuckerino6763 3 місяці тому

    Yappin

    • @RianPhin
      @RianPhin 3 місяці тому

      weird comment lol

    • @swanscream3191
      @swanscream3191 25 днів тому

      @ritosuckerino6763 watch one about reading comprehension and come back here

    • @ritosuckerino6763
      @ritosuckerino6763 25 днів тому

      @@swanscream3191 what does reading comprehension have to do with a UA-cam video? Sophomoric video, fans dying to feel smart.

    • @swanscream3191
      @swanscream3191 24 дні тому

      ​@@ritosuckerino6763 Sorry man, I spelled it out instead of saying 'literacy', a broader term. If the video is sophomoric, it should be easy for a guy like you to dazzle me. I'm going to wait. Say something about fashion.

  • @ritosuckerino6763
    @ritosuckerino6763 3 місяці тому

    Straight yappin

  • @jadahayes5935
    @jadahayes5935 3 місяці тому

    I’m glad I’m not the only one that noticed that they used black people to indicate that they were with the wrong crowd😪

  • @thejalenfox
    @thejalenfox 3 місяці тому

    just reminding everyone that this is the best video on the internet

    • @noahbentton
      @noahbentton 3 місяці тому

      literally ... so ahead of her time in terms of analysis and knowledge like woah

  • @bluedreamer6564
    @bluedreamer6564 3 місяці тому

    Do you mean to say "formed," as opposed to "informed?"

    • @RianPhin
      @RianPhin 3 місяці тому

      no

    • @RianPhin
      @RianPhin 3 місяці тому

      I mean to say “it informed” which is why I say “informed”, the 2000s were not “formed” (created) by those things. they were informed by what i describe Informed defined: “give an essential or formative principle or quality to. ex: "the relationship of the citizen to the state is informed by”

  • @lamoustiquere
    @lamoustiquere 4 місяці тому

    Wow yes, the presence and comprehension of this work is everything! What a unique commentary in yet another monetized culture bent on diluting the truth towards the status quo. Art about art, indeed. There is always a pang of grief to know we are this lost and to see it reflected so clearly. But I am moved by the work and your analysis nonetheless! Thank you Edit: I love the hypermundane as the recognized way to solve it all, it’s the perfect gateway back towards the embodied self and its expression therein. How genuinely empowering!

  • @shotbystaf
    @shotbystaf 4 місяці тому

    loved this!

  • @bruceswinford4901
    @bruceswinford4901 4 місяці тому

    One thing I really like about 20471120 and also Gaultier, beauty:beast, Girbaud, etc is how they were able to subvert traditional clothing styles while creating designs that were functional and comfortable to wear. In particular with Gaultier's stuff, people tend to only focus on his haute couture stuff, he made a-lot of very functional utilitarian clothing with organic materials like wool and cotton...I hate this idea that sustainable, comfortable clothing has to be boring, the dominance of brands like Carhartt in the mens streetwear fashion space is really visually irritating to me.

  • @koyukidevet
    @koyukidevet 4 місяці тому

    Where did you get that necklace from?

  • @samurai9319
    @samurai9319 4 місяці тому

    I love your Aphex Twin pendant. I don't know you, but mad respect.

  • @Xena10000
    @Xena10000 4 місяці тому

    slat slat slatt

  • @Eatstarchildren
    @Eatstarchildren 4 місяці тому

    I mean yes and no